YOUR OWN FRENCH ONION SOUP Soupe a l'oignon, `a large bowl of it bubbling under a brown crust of cheese, is practically a meal in itself. Serve it after a football game, at a Sunday-night supper, or as a midnight snack. Its rich aroma, its wonderful flavor and savor, have made French onion soup a world favorite. Here are directions for brewing your own, and for giving your personal touches to canned and dehaydrated onion soups. SOUPE A L'OIGNON, MAISON (Homemade French Onion Soup) Fon 6 TO 8 Suuvmcs Onion soup is simply a large quantity of sliced onions slowly cooked and browned in butter, then simmered in beef bouillon. To achieve the true home- made taste, you'll need a homemade bouillon-beef bones and shank meat simmered for several hours with the usual carrots, onions, celery, seasonings, and herbs. If your own bouillon is lacking, substitute canned beef bouillon. A heavy 4-quart saucepan or 3 Tb flour casserole 2 quarts hot beef bouillon 3 Tb butter (you may dilute canned 1 Tb olive oil or cooking oil bouillon with 2 cups of About 1 1/2 lbs. or 5 to 6 water) cups thinly sliced yellow 1 cup red or white wine onions 1 bay leaf 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp sage 1/2 tsp sugar Salt and pepper to taste Melt the butter with the oil in the saucepan or casserole; add the sliced onions and stir up to coat with the butter. Cover the pan and cook over mod- erately low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasion- ally, until onions are tender and translucent. Then un- cover the pan, raise heat to moderately high, and stir in the salt and sugar. (Sugar, by caramelizing helps onions to brown.) Cook for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently, until onions have turned an even deep golden brown. Then lower heat to moderate, stir in the flour, and add a bit more butter if flour does not absorb into a paste with the onions. Cook slowly, stirring Continu- ally, for about 2 minutes to brown the flour lightly. Remove from heat. Pour in about a cup of the hot bouillon, stirring with a wire whip to blend flour and bouillon. Add the rest of the bouillon and the wine, bay, and sage, and bring to the simmer. Simmer slowly for 30 to 40 min- utes, season to taste with salt and pepper, and the soup is done, If you are not serving immediately, let cool uncovered, then cover and refrigerate. Serve with French bread and grated Parmesan cheese, or bake with cheese as follows. I usually need more sugar to help the browning of the onions. I use only half as much beef stock. Then I freeze the soup in one pint containers or one cup containers. Add the extra stock when making soup, one can per pint container. Or add the concentrate to stews. Soupe a l'Oignon Gratinée (Onion Soup Gratin~ed with Cheese) This turns onion soup into a hearty main course; all you need to complete the meal is a bottle of red wine, perhaps a green salad, and fresh fruit. You may pre- pare all the elements for this ahead of time, but once the soup is assembled in its casserole, you should pro- ceed with the recipe or the bread may sink to the bottom of the dish. (Note: You will need a chewy homemade type of bread; the light flimsy kind usually disintegrates in the soup.) A loaf of French bread A peeled 2-inch raw onion Olive oil or melted butter A 2-ounce piece Swiss cheese The preceding soup, brought 1½ cups grated Swiss and to the simmer Parmesan cheese, mixed Optional: ¼ cup cognac Cut the bread into slices 1 inch thick, paint lightly with oil or butter, and arrange in one layer on a bak- ing sheet. Place in middle level of a preheated 325- degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes until beginning to brown lightly; turn and brown lightly for 15 to 20 minutes on the other side. These are called croutes. Pour the hot soup into a serving casserole or baking dish. Pour in the optional cognac, grate in the onion, and shave the piece of cheese into fine slivers and strew over the soup. Place a closely packed layer of croiites over the top of the soup and spread on the grated cheese, covering the crouites completely. Sprinkle a tablespoon of oil or butter over the cheese, and set the soup in the middle level of a preheated 350-degree oven, Bake for about 30 minutes, or until soup is bub- bling slowly and cheese has melted. Meanwhile, heat your broiler to red hot; just before serving, run the soup under the hot broiler for a mo- ment to brown the cheese lightly. Pass remaining crolites in a bread tray along with the soup, Your Own Dehydrated or Canned Onion Soup Reconstitute the soup as directed on the package or can. Then add a cup of red or white wine, a bay leaf, and a half teaspoon of sage or thyme (for 7 to 8 cups of soup); simmer the soup for 20 minutes. If con- sistency seems too thin, you can thicken it by cream- ing a tablespoon or two of flour and butter together in a small bowl, beating in a bit of hot soup, then pouring this back into the soup and simmering for a few minutes. Serve the soup as is, or substitute it for the homemade soup in the preceding recipe,